
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Krazy Korean

Monday, March 29, 2010
Mexi Stache
I was experimenting with the mustache before I left for Mexico, but decided to go clean cut before I left. Ever since I've been waiting for the inspiration to bring it back. After being mustache-less for the last two and half months, my mustache whiskers were jumping out at me, so I decided to leave it when I shaved the other day. As is usually the case, I've gotten mixed reviews. One of the best was from one of my fellow volunteers, Kelly, who complimented the stache in the early stages, saying it was on par with the Mexi Stache. Mexican men aren't known for the full beard but if they don't shave for a few days, the mustacle seems to represent the strongest. I'm not sure if my stache will last, but I feel like it gives me a little extra street cred for now.Saturday, March 27, 2010
Adventures With Pati



Friday, March 26, 2010
Mexican Hot Dogs


Having just bragged the other day about having access to homegrown meat here at NPH, I must reveal that we also eat our share of meat slurry. Hot dogs are big staple here, for breakfast and dinner in particular. Often for breakfast they're chopped up and served with salsa. Yesterday for Pati's birthday party Dona Felipa whipped up a special concoction with hot dogs, cheese, and green salsa. Tonight was straight up hot dog night. The line is always slower to get your food because there is an assembly line of condiments: first is the maynaise bucket (as seen above) - which goes directly on the bun, then chilis - a Mexican favorite, then tomatoes and onions, lastly ketchup - which is squirted haphazardly over the whole plate. The final product is quite the creation as you see Paco displaying. Even a true Chicagoan would be proud, minus the ketchup of course.Thursday, March 25, 2010
Girl Talk


Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Eating Local



I've mentioned sheep (borrego) once before, it's the nickname given to kids with curly hair. Some people count sheep to help them fall asleep, but I just listen to them instead. My room happens to be a straight shot from the sheep pen, so when I'm lying in bed at night, I fall asleep to the rhthmic "bahs" of my wooly neighbors. There's something comforting about sleeping so close to my food source. They say the average piece of food in the United States travels 1500 miles before it arrives on your plate. It takes a lot of chemicals and fossil fuels to sustain such a journey, not to mention a cost to the nutritional value and flavor. Today we had barbeque lamb for lunch...and it only had to travel 500 feet from the farm to the dining room.
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Spiders and Flies


When I was applying for a position with NPH I was most intrigued by the opportunity to provide physical therapy in a Latin American country. I downplayed the fact that I would be working with kids, both in my own mind and when describing the opportunity to other people. The reality was that I had very little pediatric physical therapy experience and limited interactions with kids in my personal life. Living and working in a big city like Chicago, sometimes it felt like days would go by without seeing a kid. During my morning bike commute it was always a shock to see a kid riding his bike or walking to school. My most recent kid credentials involve being an uncle to my nephew and niece, which usually involves fighting the rest of my family for their short bursts of attention.Saturday, March 20, 2010
Saturday with the Angels

Saturdays always look different for me. I don't see patients so usually I spend the day tinkering around the clinic trying to make myself useful...fixing wheelchairs, running errands in town, hanging out with patients. The cast of characters in the clinic is always fluctuating depending on who is hurt or sick. I introduced Angel #1 (Akon) a few weeks ago. He's the kid who broke his jaw during my first week here when he fell off a balcony. We're hoping he's going to be cleared to eat real food on Monday. Dan and I are planning to take him out for some tacos to celebrate. Thursday, March 18, 2010
PB You Complete Me

When I moved away from Camden, NJ my friends made some t-shirts in my honor. They decided there were 4 constants in my life that defined me: 1.) Biking 2.) Running 3.)Peanut Butter and Jelly sandwiches (I was known for making 2 every night to bring to work the next day) 4.) Quoting 90's rap songs - represented by this profound lyric by the group Kris Kross, "Some y'all try to rhyme but you can't rhyme like this.".Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Apodos Part II

They call this little guy Chucky (which they prounounce Chooky), because of his hair and some scars on his face from when he was attacked by a dog when he was younger. Every kid here is a big fan horror movies and for some reason Chucky movies are really popular.
This is Gordo = Fat Boy. He's actually one of the few overweight boys in the house, but he can still hold his own on the soccer field. He's embraced his nickname, in fact he introduced himself as Gordo. Being called fat in Mexico doesn't have the same connotation as the US. I wanted to include this picture because his t-shirt gives a shout out to both the town of Tinley Park and bike rodeos.
This is Chorre, a nickname they use for big ears. He's not the only one with this nickname. I asked him one night after a soccer game what chorre meant. Another kid chimed in that it was because of his ears. He all of sudden got mad at the kid, as if he had forgotten what his nickname meant, even though people were using it all night.Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Apodos
This is Pepino, which means cucumber. He's uniformly skinny with a nicely rounded head. I would have never thought of it, but it works. Monday, March 15, 2010
NPH at Its Best



I spent this last weekend in Cuernavaca, doing the usual combination of partying and resting. Sunday morning I went to mass at the NPH high school house. Afterwards my friend Sophie, who volunteers in Cuerna, commented that Sunday mass is when she likes NPH the most. Tonight I decided that I like NPH the most when I'm watching pick up soccer games.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Mexican Walmart
Walmart is a force to be reckoned with in the world. When a Walmart pops up, its presence is felt for miles and miles. Walmart, and other big box stores for that matter, have the ability to bring in mass quantities of low priced items. As a result, local hardware stores, grocery stores and general stores can't compete and some will eventually go out of business. Beyond it's economic impact, Walmart often becomes a geographic landmark because of its sheer size, especially in small towns. During physical therapy school I did one of my clinicals at Hastings Indian Hospital, which serves the Cherokee Nation. The local town of Tahlequah, Oklahoma had recently gotten a Walmart. Everytime I asked for directions, the response started with, "Well, you know where is Walmart is, right?" It was as if it had become the new town square. I met a local girl and one night we went on a date that consisted of walking around Walmart. The outdoor patio section was especially romantic.My snobbiness against Walmart has waxed and waned over the years, pending its convenience and who is around to judge me. Walmart isn't an option in Chicago because the unions have kept them from invading the city (at least last time I checked). Plus, being a bike rider, shopping in bulk isn't logistically possible. When I was living in community in Camden, NJ, driving to the suburbs to hit up a big box store often required a dissertation on the necessity in order to absolve our liberal guilt. I'm exaggerating a little.
Ironically, since moving to Mexico I've become a Walmart regular. Last Saturday I came to Cuernavaca to check out some equipment needed for the physical therapy room and yesterday I got some pictures developed on my day off. I have to admit the experiences were incredibly familiar and comfortable. All the prices are set so you don't have to worry about bargaining. There are free samples of food and beverages in the aisles. You can pay with credit cards. There was even a nicely manicured lawn in front where I sat and wrote a letter to my grandmother while I was waiting for my pictures to be deveoloped. You can take the American out of America but you can't take the America out of the American.
"I Am America (And So Can You!)"...Stephen Colbert
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Ayyyy No Dan!
I mentioned Dan in a previous post, he's my fellow volunteer in the clinic. I snapped this picture of him tonight before dinner...scubbing his hands like a true future doctor. He's been accepted to med school at Michigan and Duke, now he's just waiting to hear from Harvard. In the meantime he's been doing his best to keep the clinic pharmacy organized and the patients happy. His specialties include boiling eggs, teasing kids, running errands in the pueblo, Uno and dominoes...I've never seen him lose. I am very grateful to Dan because within my first 2 days here he communicated everything he had learned the hard way during his first 6 months on the job. Namely how to navigate the gossip and the jealousy of the women in the clinic. Not to mention, the particular ways of Dona Felipa.When we're together everyone asks if we're brothers?...cousins? They can't believe that we didn't know eachother before we got here, we must be related. When I want to confuse the kids I tell them that Dan looks a lot like my actual brother, whose name is also Dan. Which is a true statement. Just to be annoying, some of the kids and encargados intentionally call me Dan and him Jeremy.
To appreciate the title of this post you have to be familiar with some of the accent of southern Mexico. The best way I can describe it is "whiney". Girls in particular are very good at it. Dan has this great dry sense of humor. When he teases them, 99% of the time, they respond with "Ayyy No Dan!" (in a whiney accent). I can't tell you how many times I've heard it. In fact, I can't hear the word "Dan" (prounounced Daan with a Spanish accent) without thinking "Ayyy No!"
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Dona Felipa

Dona Felipa is the hardest worker in the clinic. She starts at 7am and doesn't leave until 7pm, the only time she rests is during her siesta between 2-3pm. Most mornings we cross paths as I'm heading out with my broom and she's emptying the garbage. She straps the garbage can to a wheelchair and wheels it down the hill. Then she'll feed the women who can't feed themselves, wash the dishes, sweep the clinic, mop all the floors, wash the linens by hand, water the plants...and then repeat in the afternoon. Sometimes if she's feeling a little energetic she'll whip an extra soup to serve with the lunch provided by the main kitchen. She also insists on serving me my food (waitress style) and will physically restrain me from doing my own dishes. She's very old school like that. I mentioned in a previous post that she has two helpers, Lilia and Yelli, who were assigned to help her with her many jobs. The problem is that she takes so much pride in her work that she'll often re-do their chores, because they're not up to her standards.
Lili and Yelli aren't the only ones affected by her perfectionism. Many times my morning schedule is determined by the stage of her mopping cycle. She will bluntly tell me to wait to start with patients until the floors are dry, so as to not make wheelchair marks or footprints on the freshly cleaned floor. It threw me off a little when I started, having come from an environment where every minute of my work day is accounted and billed for. But now I just put my feet up and wait and until she gives me the go ahead. Plus, I've learned that a strong woman like herself is someone you want on your good side at all times. The doctor might be the head of the clinic, but she rules the roost.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
RAH vs. REP

R-A-H are three well known letters in the Sullivan family. They were made famous by a speech my dad gave to my brother Dan when he was in junior high and getting into a little too much trouble. "R" stands for respect. "A" stands for attitude. "H" stands for honesty. Now say it together...RAH, like a cheer. It became famous partly because we would make fun of my dad for being so cheesy and partly because it became a baseline for what our parents expected of us. RAH still gets a shout out at least once year, usually when we're all together on vacation or over the holidays. It must have been a damn good speech because Dan is one of the most respectful, well adjusted, honest guys around.
I have been teaching English 4 nights a week and I have inherited 2 of the worst behaved sections of boys. At the end of last week one of the classes was out of control. It got to the point that I literally made them sit in silence for half the class. So I decided that this week I would start class with a speech that set the baseline for what I expected. I went with a Spanish version of RAH = R-E-P, as you see above. Respeto, have some respect for me and the class. Echale ganas, show some desire to learn English. Participacion, I don't care how much English you know, but participate in the class activities. At the end I told them they were invited to stay and learn if they could comply with REP, otherwise they could go to a study hall with the director. Not one kid got up, even though some had asked to be preemptively kicked out before class. In fact, at one point in the middle of class they were getting loud and I stopped and looked at them (you know like teachers do) and one kid said, "Be quiet, 'R', respeto." Maybe REP with catch on like RAH.
I think all teachers deal with this on some level. Check out this short bit that I heard on NPR, entitled, "A Professor's Diatribe...Set to Music."
The picture above is of Donaldo, I wrote about him the first night I was here in Miacatlan. He is in my Tuesday/Thursday class. They're always so much more likeable outside of class. He reminds me a little of my brother Dan.
Monday, March 8, 2010
An Ode to Choco Krispis
Me and Choco Krispis go way back. My parents have taken a yearly trip to Mexico every winter for probably last 25 years. In fact, they'll be heading to Cozumel next week. They would always fly home late on a Saturday night after we had gone to sleep. The next morning was almost like Christmas because of the excitement of seeing them and because they would bring us souvenirs. Some of the presents were pretty standard, like a set of maracas or a t-shirt with a fish that said "Mr. Barry Cuda...Cozumel, Mexico". But they would also bring us "Mexican brand" stuff, like Mexican Coke and little boxes of Choco Krispies. It was so weird that the Coke can had the ingredients in Spanish and it tasted different...a little spicy or something. It was so funny that they called Cocoa Krispies, Choco Krispis. We would savor them, partly because they would never buy us "sugar cereal" normally and partly because it was "Mexican cereal".Little did I know then that I would have access to a lifetime supply of Choco Krispis (see Cereal for Life post). As volunteers they allow us to take certain foods from the kitchen for the times when we are hungry after meals (for me it tends to be nighttime). One of the staples is cereal and milk. Kelloggs must have a serious excess of Choco Krispis because that's all we've been getting lately. I have to admit I don't savor it like I used to, but tonight I will in honor of this blog post.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Borderline Basketball Player

I really liked basketball growing up. Like a lot of surburban families we had a hoop in the driveway. I remember when we put it in and all of us etched our initials into the cement before it dried. I would shoot hoops year round, cold fingers and all. As junior high tryouts approached in the late Fall I would practice a little harder and my dad would have to flash the porch lights to let me know it was time to go to bed. There was something cathartic about the repetition of shooting the ball, especially when the air was crisp and you could see your breath. I didn't make the team in 7th grade. I was heart broken when my name wasn't on the list. I took it like a man until my mom asked me how it went and I busted into tears. In 8th grade I got lucky during try outs, hitting an outside jumper during the final scrimmage...I made the B team. Freshman year I made it again, but I never got to play in the B games, let alone practice. At one point the coach said, "Sullivan, this isn't cross country, you can actually come in contact with the other team." That was the end of my basketball career, but I still enjoy shooting hoops when the opportunity arises. Friday, March 5, 2010
Chocolate For Your Sins

Throughout Lent the different sections of kids take turns going to confession. Father Phil Cleary, better known as Padre Felipe, is the house priest. He splits his time between Miacatlan and Cuervavaca each week. He's been here for over 20 years and is now the president of NPH International. He also happens to be straight out of the Rogers Park neighborhood in Chicago. Today my group was up for confession. Per Fr. Phil's request I came down from the clinic to make sure the kids were behaving while they waited to spill their guts.Thursday, March 4, 2010
Productive Work With Nacho



Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Left Overs


The summer after I graduated from PT school I worked in the kitchen at a church camp for kids in Wisconsin. It was a funny time in my life. I had a chunk of time before I moved to Camden, NJ and I needed to study for the board exam. I found it hard to study without any structure in my life. My good friend Jason Arndt, a seasoned camper, got me the last available job for the season...kitchen helper. I soon found out the kitchen is the place where they send the kids who aren't mature enough to be counselors. At 24 years old, I threw off the average age a bit. But it created a nice rhythm of life. I would sleep on a mattress on Jason's cabin floor, wake up at 6am, cut fruit and vegetables until 3pm, exercise and then study a couple hours after dinner. I actually enjoyed the work and my co-workers, but I had a hard time with how much food we threw away every day. There was always a fear of not making enough food and there was backlash from the staff if we ran out of something. As a result, if we had 400 campers, we would make enough french toast for 600...and we always threw away a third of the food. I would try to say a little prayer of repentance as I emptied the good food into a garbage bag. My man Thich Nhat Hanh says, "sometimes you have to throw things in the landfill...but at least be mindful that you're doing it."







