Change Is Always Hard

It's hard to get change here in Mexico...especially if you're carrying big bills, which is usually the case when you're a high roller like myself. No, but seriously folks, when you go to the bank or ATM, you're almost always given higher denominations (200 and 500 bills). Two-hundred pesos for example is a little less than $20, and it's a struggle to find a place that will accept it without having to go up and down the block asking other vendors for change. This is understandable for people selling hot dogs, peanuts or fruit on the street, but even legit businesses like bus companies are known to make a big fuss about using a bigger bill. When I'm with a group of friends I notice that we often borrow money, not because we're out but because we haven't had the chance to break a bill. Today I had a store owner give me a discount so that he wouldn't have to give me all of his coins. In conclusion, I've learned to carry an assortment of bills and coins...and always be strategic in the order that I spend them.

Can I Check My E-Mail?

One of my first weeks here, a kid noticed my lap top and asked if he could check his email. I didn't think much of it and said yes. Little did I know that I had just stepped onto a slippery slope. Before I knew it, everyone and their brother were asking me to check their email. I quickly learned to set boundaries. There is a place and a time...and it's always conditional. The place is on the stairs below my room where we can usually catch a wireless signal. The time is 6pm, a half hour before dinner (it needs to be finite). Once the bell rings for dinner, e-mail time is over. It's always conditional because I hate to disappoint them if something at work runs late or another responsibility pops up. It's not uncommon to pass a kid during the day and they'll just say, "Tonight at 6?", to which my response is always, "We'll see."

As you can see from the picture a crowd develops once the lap top pops up...it's my most popular moment of the day. The kids sit behind eachother and critique eachother's spelling and typing speed as they hunt and peck away. They have great email addresses like, akon_silmshadypunk@hotmail.com or blinkmiguel_182@hotmail.com. The funny thing too is that most of their messages are forwards from a crazy aunt or spam mail. But I guess in this day and age checking your email is a sort of rite of passage, there's some sort of importance in having to do the act itself.

Anthropological Easter

I was ready to tear up Mexico city with my friend Park this weekend, unfortunately I was too sick accomplish my goal. It started with me almost passing out during the Our Father during the Good Friday Mass here at NPH. Despite a blood pressure of 70/60, I decided to still make the trek to Mexico City...and then spend almost 36 hours straight in a hotel room with very little energy or appetite. When I emerged from my tomb this morning, I had every intention of attending an Easter service, but they're harder to find than you might think. As an alternative I went to the Museum of Anthropolgy.

The museum is filled with artifacts, photographs and comical dioramas of primitive scenes (think junior high science project). Despite the cheesiness of the dioramas, I couldn't help but to think that the majority of my genes are wired to perform the same tasks that hunter gatherers faced thousands of years ago. Zoom in on the picture of the neanderthals fending off predators, holding rocks with their opposable thumbs (it made me think of my own instincts when I've faced packs of dogs while running here in Mexico).

During my visit I also learned a new term that has brought some clarity to my understanding of Mexican culture. The term is religious syncretism, which refers to the ways in which indigenous people incorporated Catholicism into their own religious system. This wasn't forced by missionaries but rather it came from their need to have dieties for the new tools and techniques that were brought by the Spanish. For example, Christ was seen as the creator of cattle, metal tools and money. Celebrations of Christmas and Easter also corresponded well with solstice festivities. This fluidity between the Mexican people's indigenous roots and declaration of Catholicism is still very present today. In fact I mentioned this reality after witnessing my first parade during my first week here. Personally, coming from a country where most of us are detached from our indigenous roots, this fluidity was hard to wrap my head around. People tend to draw clear lines between Catholic vs. Non-Catholic, Christian vs. Non-Christian, Believer vs. Non-Believer, Atheist vs. Pagan. In fact, the lightness with which some Mexicans hold their spiritual allegiance might have really bothered not too long ago. But I'm at a place where presently where I can appreciate it.

Fabiola

I mentioned Fabiola in the "Girl Talk" post, but she deserves her own spotlight. She had septic arthritis when she was very young, which resulted in several surgeries and a severely contracted right knee. She is by far my all star patient. In fact, I don't think she has ever missed a session. Not only has she been consistent, but she has been an excellent student of what it takes to care of her joints and her body in general. She calls me "maestro", which means teacher. The truth is that she has been one of my best teachers. If I prounounce something incorrectly she makes me repeat it until I get it right. My friend Park picked up on this and has been coming up to the clinic during her sessions for tutoring sessions while she does her exercises. She's incredibly patient.

She's a special kid. One day my Spanish was flowing better than normal and she stopped me before she left and said, "I'm so proud of you Maestro, you've improved so much!" In addition to the physical benefits she received from therapy, I've noticed an increased confidence in her. From what I understand she's had some self esteem issues in the past and these days she seems much more self assured. I'm proud of her too.

Krazy Korean

My last year in Camden I had roommate named Jaeduck Park, who we affectionately called the Krazy Korean. At the time he was studying for his second Masters in Linguistics at the University of Pennsylvania. We became quick friends. He was always whipping up exotic Korean concoctions in the kitchen. When I would try them, he would reply with one of his pat sayings, like "You my friend man!" (Insert cool Asian accent)

We both moved away in 2007. He took a job with the government in Monterrey, California teaching intensive Korean language classes to CIA-types by day. At night he teaches English as a second language at a local community college to Mexican immigrants. Through his experience he's become very interested in the Spanish language and culture. So when he heard I would be in Mexico for 6 months, he didn't hesitate to book a flight for a visit.

It's been amazing to watch him attack the language from such a technical standpoint. Despite having no formal Spanish education, he's constantly asking about different verb tenses and grammar structure. Unlike most tourists he actually uses his Spanish/English dictionary with incredible efficiency. He's developed his own entourage of kids who follow him around, so he's had plenty of time to put his knowlege to use while I'm working in the clinic. Not to mention, he's a really funny guy, which he finds a way to transcend with his limited language skills. I'm glad he's here. We'll be heading to Mexico City together this weekend for a little descanso.

Mexi Stache

I was experimenting with the mustache before I left for Mexico, but decided to go clean cut before I left. Ever since I've been waiting for the inspiration to bring it back. After being mustache-less for the last two and half months, my mustache whiskers were jumping out at me, so I decided to leave it when I shaved the other day. As is usually the case, I've gotten mixed reviews. One of the best was from one of my fellow volunteers, Kelly, who complimented the stache in the early stages, saying it was on par with the Mexi Stache. Mexican men aren't known for the full beard but if they don't shave for a few days, the mustacle seems to represent the strongest. I'm not sure if my stache will last, but I feel like it gives me a little extra street cred for now.

Adventures With Pati

I mentioned last week that my Saturdays are always different. One activity that I forgot to mention was taking Pati to visit friends in the pueblo. This usually involves pushing Pati through the backroads of Miacatlan literally for miles. I'm feeling much more comfortable with my off road wheelchair driving skills. The good news is that there is usually a nice meal on the other end of the journey. Today we ended up in the home of a very nice family who had prepared a birthday pozole for Pati. Being both a foreigner and a visitor I was gifted with the pig's foot in my bowl of soup. I asked if it was edible or just for flavor. When they told me it was a delicacy, I ate it up, little hairs and all!

One other bonus to the trip was this little guy Juan who you see in the pictures. He's 4 years old and such a cute kid. Little ones love Pati and he's no exception. As he layed with her on the floor he would ask me great questions, like "Does she ever cry?" Which I responded, "Sometimes." Then he asked, "Why doesn't she grow?", which I didn't know how to answer. Me and Juanito also played soccer and explored a nearby river after lunch. He's quite the climber, refusing to hold my hand even on the steep inclines.